“Wouldn't you know we're riding on the Marrakesh Express” CSN&Y

It was a pleasant 4 ¼ hour train ride in a first class compartment. Upon exiting, we caught a taxi to the Place du Moukef inside the medina (the medina ramparts are a 10 mile circuit). Marrakesh’s medina is huge compared to Rabat's – hundreds of narrow, winding alley ways. With the help of Harold’s GPS (and a quick direction from a passerby), we found our hotel – Riad Safa. The alley ways are dark and dreary with plain windowless concrete walls; however, open an ornate door and you enter a wonderland. The insides are built around courtyards with gardens, fountains and ornate trees with sunlight beaming down from the sky above. The rooms are around the courtyard and may have balconies looking into the courtyard (as ours did). We had a delicious dinner upon our arrival at the riad, then walked through the medina for about an hour. After a decent night’s sleep (always interrupted by a call to prayer at about 5 AM), we had breakfast on the rooftop and set out for the day’s adventure in the medina and beyond.

Our room, called the Zanzibar Room

We enjoy a wonderful dinner in the riad.

Our itinerary in Marrakesh:

1.   A 60 Dh ticket (~$7.50) admitted us to the Ali ben Youssef Medersa (theological college) once the largest in North Africa, housing 900 students; the Museum of Marrakesh; and Qoubba almorandide (ruins).

Harold in one of the dorm rooms across the courtyard

2.   From there, we tried to absorb the sensory overload as we walked through the souks (market stalls selling pottery, leather, fabrics, food, etc) to the Djema El-Fna, Marrakesh’s large main open square where we found snake-charmers, belly dancers, storytellers, stalls selling oranges, buts, dates and even a dentists’ booth displaying false teeth for sale. UNESCO declared this area a “Masterpiece of World Heritage” in 2001.

The souks in the medina

The Djema El-Fna

3.      We exited the medina and strolled along the wide boulevards, stopping at Les Jardins de Grueliz (Grueliz Gardens) for a buffet lunch. From there, we walked to Marjorelle Gardens. Yves St. Laurent and his partner bought and restored these lovely gardens, a psychedelic desert mirage of over 300 plant species.

Our lunch spot

The Marjorelle Gardens

4.   We re-entered the medina and visited the Badi Palace(now a ruin) and the Saadian Tombs.

5.   Since we had walked many miles, we went back to the riad for some wine and a rest. We then headed out again for the main square getting a bit disoriented in the dark alleys. A young man walked us part way then demanded 20 Dh. Harold have him 10 Dh, leaving them best friends (NOT!). The square was crazy, but fun and after buying some delicious pastries (25cents each), we went back to the room for the night.

6.   Sunday morning, we had breakfast again on the rooftop and set off with our backpacks to the Dar Si Said (a beautiful museum), to the Bahia Palace and the garden at the Koulaubia (a mosque which is a Marrakesh landmark).

7.   We walked the 1.5 miles briskly to the train station and caught the 1 PM train, having great conversations with a Japanese family and Moroccan girl (in English, of course).

We returned to the home base for dinner and met the six newcomers. Now we are getting ready for bed and another week will begin.