Don't confuse Moulay Idriss with Moulay Ismail

Although our weekend trip to Meknes was fifth on our list of “must sees” and expectations were middling, we were very pleasantly surprised with the town, the hotel, the sights and our side trips. Like Fes, Marrakesh, and Rabat, Meknes is an imperial city but Meknes sees comparatively few visitors and prides itself on the friendly and relaxed atmosphere. Encircled by the rich plains below the Middle Atlas Mountains, Meknes is blessed with an abundance of olives, wine, cereals, citrus and other agricultural products which is the city’s economic backbone.  In the midst of this region sit the Roman ruins, Volubilis, and the hilltop tomb of Moulay Idriss, two of the country’s most significant historic sites.

We left the home base after Friday couscous and taxied to the train station for the 2+ hour ride through the verdant, Tuscany-like valley. Our taxi in Meknes took us to Bab el-Mansour, the grandest of all imperial gateways at The Place el-Hedim. This large place or square was built by Moulay Ismail and was originally used for royal announcements and public executions and is a great place to sit and watch the world go by.

The Gateway called Bab el-Mansour

[A word about Sultan Moulay Ismail (1672-1727): ruthlessness and good breeding were essential to becoming a sultan.  On inheriting the throne, Moulay Ismail diffused the rival claims of his 83 brothers and half-brothers, celebrating his first day in power by murdering all who refused to submit to his rule. Peace won, he began building his grandiose imperial palace, plundering the country for the best materials, building city walls, Kasbahs, and many new towns. He considered himself a great lover and fathered hundreds of children; however, he did not secure a successor and the sultanate ended. But his legacy was to be the founder of modern Morocco.]

We were now faced with the daunting task of finding our Dar (hotel) among the many tiny, winding streets in the Medina. After some zigzagging, doubling back and wrong turns, we found the Dar Amazigh – a most unique hotel. We had a large room with bath for ~$50/night. The Dar had a beautiful foyer and breakfast area. After our welcoming Moroccan mint tea and cookies, we ascended to the terrace. We were there for sunset both evenings, listening to the Call for Prayers from at least a dozen nearby mosque (not in unison so it is an auditory experience!) We then went out exploring and ended up splitting a pizza at the Place el-Hedim.

Waiting for tea at Dar Amazigh

Sunset from the terrace of the Dar

After breakfast and a look at the skyline from the terrace, we set out by collective taxi to Moulay Idriss. These taxis are an experience in themselves – regular sized cars which fit six passengers plus the driver. But the drive of about 18 miles cost $1.25 each (hardly enough to cover the cost of gas).

Moulay Idriss is Morocco’s most sacred town, the final resting place of the nation’s religious and secular founder, Moulay Idriss I. Moulay Idriss I is the great grandson of the Prophet Mohammed and the founder of the country’s first real dynasty. His tomb is at the heart of the town. It is said that five pilgrimages to Moulay Idriss are the spiritual equivalent of one to Mecca. Thus, the town’s nickname: the poor man’s Mecca. Non-Muslims are barred from the mausoleum and, until recently, were not allowed to spend the night in town. The panoramic view of the town is worth the visit. From Moulay Idriss, we walked the 4 km to Volubilis.  

The town of Moulay Idriss - green building is mausoleum

The Roman Epoch in Morocco began in about 40 BC. Juba I, king of Numidia (present day Algeria) sided with Pompey in his rivalry with Caesar and lost, committing suicide after Caesar’s victory. His son, Juba II was reinstated as King of Numidia and, in 25 BC, of Mauritania (Land of the Moors) whose capital was Volubilis. Juba II lived in Volubilis with his wife (daughter of Anthony and Cleopatra). Volubilis prospered, exporting to Rome olive oil, wheat and wild animals for slaughter in the Coliseum. This resulted in the swift decimation of Volubilis’ lion, bear and elephant population over a 200 year period.

This city is the best preserved archeological site in Morocco and was declared a Unesco World Heritage site in 1997. At its peak, it is estimated that the city housed 20,000 people. The Romans abandoned the city in 280; nevertheless, the population of Berbers, Greeks, Jews and Syrians continued to speak Latin up until the arrival of Islam.  Moulay Idriss found sanctuary here in the 8^th Century before moving the Capital to Fes. Volubilis was inhabited until the 18^th Century when its marble was plundered for Moulay Ismail’s palaces in Meknes. Its buildings were finally felled by the Lisbon earthquake of 1755.

Harold, the greatest Roman Emperor

Carol at Volubilis

Several taxi rides later, we arrived back in Meknes where we visited the Dar Jamaii, a palace built in 1882 and now a museum, with pieces dating back to Ismail’s reign. We were especially impressed with the gorgeous harem room complete with luxurious rugs and cushions.  We then sauntered through the souks. Although we are getting to be old hands at souk-watching, we continue to be amazed at the sights and sounds around us.

Caftans for sale

Beautiful display of olives

Tajines shimmer in the sunlight

We returned to the Dar for tea and sunset, then ventured out for dinner, having a delicious prune and apricot chicken tajine at the Restaurant Mille et Une Nuits (1001 Nights).

Dinner at Restaurant Mille et Une Nuits

After packing and breakfast Sunday morning, we visited the Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail. Then we went to Koubbat as-Sufara, descending into a vast crypt. The dark and slightly spooky network of rooms was used for food storage and (as tour guides delight in recounting, maybe erroneously) as a dungeon for Christian slaves who provided labor for Moulay Ismail’s building spree.

In the crypt

Our final visit was to Heri es-Souani, a building that Moulay Ismail regarded as one of his finest architectural projects. The huge building displays the complexity of 17^th Century Moroccan plumbing (well in advance of Europe). They had a remarkable system of chain bucket wells built between each of the staterooms. Tiny windows, massive walls and a system of under floor water channels kept the temperature cool and air circulating. This building provided stabling and food for an incredible 12,000 horses.

Heri es-Souani no longer has a roof, but the size is vast

Our last stop was a terrace lunch of grilled lamb. Then on to the train and “home” where we met the three new volunteers who arrived this weekend.

Our last lunch in Meknes was at this terrace restaurant