The end of a wonderful volunteer trip with CCS

Our last week in Morocco flew by and our time in Morocco has come to an end. It is a beautiful country with kind and hospitable people. I would love to return someday.

On Monday, we returned to the Medina, and then went back to the Mausoleum of King Mohammed V. The grandfather, father and uncle of the current Moroccan king are buried there. We went here on our first week but were unable to enter the mausoleum because some dignitary was there.

On Tuesday, Harold and I took a walk then came back to the home base in time for Khadija to put henna on our hands. Wednesday, we took another long walk (getting a little lost on the way back).

On Thursday, a woman from Harold’s class invited him, Tyler and me to her home. Another student picked us up and we met a third woman at the house. The welcome we received was amazing beyond words. Her two daughters, her nephew and a friend were at her house when we arrived. We were greeted at the door with a traditional Moroccan welcome: a small glass of milk with orange blossom juice and a walnut filled date. After talking for a while, we were led to another room where the homemade dishes just kept appearing one after another. This lasted for over three hours! They said that this kind of feast for guests is not at all unusual. All we can say is “delish.” Needless to say, we couldn’t eat any dinner when we returned to the home base; however, we did all go out for a Moroccan mint mojito as a goodbye gesture to us.

One of the many many courses of homemade Moroccan delicacies

Our gracious hosts for the evening pose with us.

Today was sad. We first had to say goodbye to Andrea (the volunteer who was with us for four weeks) and Khadija (the woman in charge of the house whom we had grown to admire so much). We had our last classes and had to say goodbye to our wonderful students and the staff at our placements. Everyone begged us to stay, but we have to leave them in the hands of the next group of volunteers. I hope they’ll be able to continue the instruction of the present perfect continuous tense, etc. 

My class at Feminin Pluriel



Harold's class poses outside their classroom.

My class had mint tea and cookies on the last day.

After couscous Friday, several of the volunteers left for the weekend. Beca and I walked to Marjane, the mall about 30 minutes away, and then came back for tea and a nice conversation with Mohamed, the CCS director here. Now we are trying to fit everything in our suitcases and keep them less than 50 pounds each. The biggest challenge will be to get our tajine home in one piece!

So, we’ll have dinner at 7 PM, and then be up at 5 AM for the flight home – the end of a wonderful six week experience and the beginning of life back in Maryland with family and friends. Life is so good!

Don't confuse Moulay Idriss with Moulay Ismail

Although our weekend trip to Meknes was fifth on our list of “must sees” and expectations were middling, we were very pleasantly surprised with the town, the hotel, the sights and our side trips. Like Fes, Marrakesh, and Rabat, Meknes is an imperial city but Meknes sees comparatively few visitors and prides itself on the friendly and relaxed atmosphere. Encircled by the rich plains below the Middle Atlas Mountains, Meknes is blessed with an abundance of olives, wine, cereals, citrus and other agricultural products which is the city’s economic backbone.  In the midst of this region sit the Roman ruins, Volubilis, and the hilltop tomb of Moulay Idriss, two of the country’s most significant historic sites.

We left the home base after Friday couscous and taxied to the train station for the 2+ hour ride through the verdant, Tuscany-like valley. Our taxi in Meknes took us to Bab el-Mansour, the grandest of all imperial gateways at The Place el-Hedim. This large place or square was built by Moulay Ismail and was originally used for royal announcements and public executions and is a great place to sit and watch the world go by.

The Gateway called Bab el-Mansour

[A word about Sultan Moulay Ismail (1672-1727): ruthlessness and good breeding were essential to becoming a sultan.  On inheriting the throne, Moulay Ismail diffused the rival claims of his 83 brothers and half-brothers, celebrating his first day in power by murdering all who refused to submit to his rule. Peace won, he began building his grandiose imperial palace, plundering the country for the best materials, building city walls, Kasbahs, and many new towns. He considered himself a great lover and fathered hundreds of children; however, he did not secure a successor and the sultanate ended. But his legacy was to be the founder of modern Morocco.]

We were now faced with the daunting task of finding our Dar (hotel) among the many tiny, winding streets in the Medina. After some zigzagging, doubling back and wrong turns, we found the Dar Amazigh – a most unique hotel. We had a large room with bath for ~$50/night. The Dar had a beautiful foyer and breakfast area. After our welcoming Moroccan mint tea and cookies, we ascended to the terrace. We were there for sunset both evenings, listening to the Call for Prayers from at least a dozen nearby mosque (not in unison so it is an auditory experience!) We then went out exploring and ended up splitting a pizza at the Place el-Hedim.

Waiting for tea at Dar Amazigh

Sunset from the terrace of the Dar

After breakfast and a look at the skyline from the terrace, we set out by collective taxi to Moulay Idriss. These taxis are an experience in themselves – regular sized cars which fit six passengers plus the driver. But the drive of about 18 miles cost $1.25 each (hardly enough to cover the cost of gas).

Moulay Idriss is Morocco’s most sacred town, the final resting place of the nation’s religious and secular founder, Moulay Idriss I. Moulay Idriss I is the great grandson of the Prophet Mohammed and the founder of the country’s first real dynasty. His tomb is at the heart of the town. It is said that five pilgrimages to Moulay Idriss are the spiritual equivalent of one to Mecca. Thus, the town’s nickname: the poor man’s Mecca. Non-Muslims are barred from the mausoleum and, until recently, were not allowed to spend the night in town. The panoramic view of the town is worth the visit. From Moulay Idriss, we walked the 4 km to Volubilis.  

The town of Moulay Idriss - green building is mausoleum

The Roman Epoch in Morocco began in about 40 BC. Juba I, king of Numidia (present day Algeria) sided with Pompey in his rivalry with Caesar and lost, committing suicide after Caesar’s victory. His son, Juba II was reinstated as King of Numidia and, in 25 BC, of Mauritania (Land of the Moors) whose capital was Volubilis. Juba II lived in Volubilis with his wife (daughter of Anthony and Cleopatra). Volubilis prospered, exporting to Rome olive oil, wheat and wild animals for slaughter in the Coliseum. This resulted in the swift decimation of Volubilis’ lion, bear and elephant population over a 200 year period.

This city is the best preserved archeological site in Morocco and was declared a Unesco World Heritage site in 1997. At its peak, it is estimated that the city housed 20,000 people. The Romans abandoned the city in 280; nevertheless, the population of Berbers, Greeks, Jews and Syrians continued to speak Latin up until the arrival of Islam.  Moulay Idriss found sanctuary here in the 8^th Century before moving the Capital to Fes. Volubilis was inhabited until the 18^th Century when its marble was plundered for Moulay Ismail’s palaces in Meknes. Its buildings were finally felled by the Lisbon earthquake of 1755.

Harold, the greatest Roman Emperor

Carol at Volubilis

Several taxi rides later, we arrived back in Meknes where we visited the Dar Jamaii, a palace built in 1882 and now a museum, with pieces dating back to Ismail’s reign. We were especially impressed with the gorgeous harem room complete with luxurious rugs and cushions.  We then sauntered through the souks. Although we are getting to be old hands at souk-watching, we continue to be amazed at the sights and sounds around us.

Caftans for sale

Beautiful display of olives

Tajines shimmer in the sunlight

We returned to the Dar for tea and sunset, then ventured out for dinner, having a delicious prune and apricot chicken tajine at the Restaurant Mille et Une Nuits (1001 Nights).

Dinner at Restaurant Mille et Une Nuits

After packing and breakfast Sunday morning, we visited the Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail. Then we went to Koubbat as-Sufara, descending into a vast crypt. The dark and slightly spooky network of rooms was used for food storage and (as tour guides delight in recounting, maybe erroneously) as a dungeon for Christian slaves who provided labor for Moulay Ismail’s building spree.

In the crypt

Our final visit was to Heri es-Souani, a building that Moulay Ismail regarded as one of his finest architectural projects. The huge building displays the complexity of 17^th Century Moroccan plumbing (well in advance of Europe). They had a remarkable system of chain bucket wells built between each of the staterooms. Tiny windows, massive walls and a system of under floor water channels kept the temperature cool and air circulating. This building provided stabling and food for an incredible 12,000 horses.

Heri es-Souani no longer has a roof, but the size is vast

Our last stop was a terrace lunch of grilled lamb. Then on to the train and “home” where we met the three new volunteers who arrived this weekend.

Our last lunch in Meknes was at this terrace restaurant

End of week 5

It doesn’t seem possible that I’m typing the words “only one more week to go.” This week flew by – nothing special, just our wonderful routine of teaching every morning and enjoying the afternoons and evenings with the staff and other volunteers at the home base.

On Monday, Harold and I took a long walk, ending up at the pedestrian shopping area close to home base and stopping for a scoop of ice cream. On the way home, we went to Acima, the grocery store about a block from home base to restock the chocolate supply and buy some special spices to be used in the wonderful Moroccan dishes I’m hoping to prepare when I get home.

After his placement on Tuesday, Harold walked with some of the students to the ocean which is only 15 minutes from their school.

Harold and some of his students "downy Ocean, hon"

On Tuesday afternoon, as CCS does at every site, we met one-on-one with the CCS director to give feedback on our volunteer experience – the placement, the staff, etc. Of course, we gave and received rave reviews. Then, we listened again to a lecture on Islam. Although we heard it once before our first week, Mohammed, the CCS director, is so knowledgeable about Islam (and actually about all religions) that we sat in again and learned more. That evening, Harold returned to the hammam for another scrubbing.

Wednesday, CCS took some of the new volunteers to the Roman ruins and others of us went again to the pottery. We bought a tajine, so we’re ready to try Moroccan cooking! Most of the volunteers went out for a “fancy dinner” in the Rabat Medina, but Harold and I opted to stay at the home base, relax, plan our lessons for Thursday, and eat the wonderful dinner prepared for us here.

Plenty of tajines to choose from

On Thursday, Khadija gave another wonderful cooking lesson. Although I had already made the mint tea and two other dishes, I joined in. Afterwards, a music group gave a performance and had us all up and dancing. Then, we packed for our 5^th and final weekend trip; we are leaving tomorrow for Meknes.

The musical group plays at home base

Mountain retreat - Chefchaouen

There were two disappointments this weekend – one small and one large. The small disappointment was the weather. Our sunny, warm Moroccan spring turned cool (high 40’s, low 50’s) and rainy (all day Saturday). The big disappointment was not having enough time in Chefchaouen!

But, let me start at the beginning. After lunch on Friday, we took a taxi to the bus station (which was a little confusing as there are several and we did not know that). We had to take a bus because no trains go to Chefchauen unfortunately. Our bus arrived at the station over an hour late. Then, we were on our way for the five plus hour ride north to and through the Rif Mountains. A taxi took us to Dar Dalia – a house bought by a French woman in 2006 and converted into a charming B&B. We settled in our room, then headed out for some dinner, ending up at a wonderful pizza restaurant. This is the first non-Moroccan food we’ve eaten in four weeks.

Saturday morning, we heard the rain so we didn’t rush down to breakfast. When we arrived downstairs, we met two other families staying in the Dar. It is amazing how easily most people here slip and slide from Arabic to French to English to (here close to Spain) to Spanish. No one misses a beat as they (even the children) easily and fluently speak so many languages. Puts Americans to shame!

Here’s a little about this city, Chefchauen.  Until the arrival of Spanish troops in the 1920’s, the town banned foreigners and had been visited by just three Westerners. Two were missionary explorers: the first disguised himself as a rabbi and spent only one hour here, the second, an American, was poisoned by the townsfolk in 1892. The third, in 1889, was a British journalist. The town had its origins in 1471 and over the centuries, acquired a reputation for Muslim pilgrimages. Later, the population was boosted by Muslim and Jewish refugees from Spain. These days, Chefchaouen, with a population of about 42,000, is a relaxed town with some of the friendliest Medina souks in Morocco. It is beautifully situated beneath the peaks of the Rif Mountains and is one of the prettiest towns in Morocco – an artsy village filled with white and bright blue buildings. It has long been known to backpackers for the easy availability of kif (marijuana) although Harold was offered kif only once and I not at all.

So, after donning our raincoats and most of the clothes we brought, we ventured out and spent the day seeing the sights. We mostly wandered through the Medina, then climbed to an unused Spanish Mosque for a spectacular view of the city. We had a wonderful tajine dinner and headed back to the Dar at about 5:30 PM to dry out and rest up in front of the fireplace with a glass of mint tea. At about 8:30, we decided to go out again and came upon a bakery where we downed three pastries.
We were up very early this morning for our 7 AM bus ride back to Rabat. The owner of the Dar got up, fixed us coffee and some breakfast and drove us to the bus terminal. The bus ride back was uneventful.

Upon arriving back at the home base, we met the six new volunteers (four left while we were gone). And, once again, we need to start learning new names, new hometowns, etc. But that’s always fun!

Here are some photos of Chefchaouen:

The white and bright blue houses

Selling produce in the medina

More blue and white

A baby goat got into the handbags - looking for his mother perhaps?

View of the medina from the mosque

End of week 4

The weeks just seem to be flying by. I can’t believe that our fourth week is already ending. But, it was a wonderful week at our placements. We are finding so much satisfaction in watching our students’ growing understanding of English. We are very busy with teaching, preparation for future lessons, our afternoon activities and planning the next weekend journey.

On Monday afternoon, we stayed around the home base for another lesson in Arabic (my students get such a kick out of my pronunciation when I throw out Arabic phrases) and another talk on women’s issues by Khadija.

On Tuesday, we went to the train station right from placement for the 12:30 train to Casablanca. We all decided to go to Rick’s Café for lunch. Rick's Cafe, the mythical saloon from the 1942 film "Casablanca" has been transformed from celluloid to wood, glass and plaster thanks to the imagination and determination of an American woman enamored of Morocco, Kathy Kriger. Set in an old courtyard-style mansion built against the walls of the Old Medina of Casablanca, the restaurant - piano bar is filled with architectural and decorative details reminiscent of the film: curved arches, a sculpted bar, balconies, and balustrades. The movie runs continuously in the bar area upstairs. The food and service were top notch and we all enjoyed our meals. We then split up and Harold and I went on a walking tour of the city (which admittedly was underwhelming).

Enjoying lunch at Rick's Cafe

You can watch the movie non-stop in the bar upstairs

 

A view from the balcony

 

Sacre Couer Cathedral in Casablanca 

On Wednesday afternoon, the CCS staff took us to Challah which was an independent city before Rabat ever existed. It dates from the 7^th or 8^th century BC. We saw the remains of the subsequent Roman city, Sala Colonia, with the remnants of the forum, baths, market, ramparts entrance gate and the majestic portals. The Chellah was also used by the Merenids as a spiritual retreat. There is a pool with eels in it which is said to produce miracles – women are known to toss eggs to the eels for fertility (no one in our group participated in the ritual although we did see several eels). It was a beautiful day to be outdoors and wander through the ruins. Almost as interesting to us as the ruins were the many storks that had incredibly large nests built around the area. These soaring white birds against the blue skies were an awesome sight.  Later Wednesday night, Harold and I took Gwen out for her going away drink – a CCS ritual. I had another delicious Moroccan mojito!

Standing in the Roman ruins



Some of the storks in the area

Stork nest on top of the minaret

Another photo of the ruins

On Thursday, we had another cooking lesson (my third). We made a coconut cake that we all love as well as a delicious sweet pastry called msmn. I doubt if I’ll make many of these new foods at home (difficult to get the ingredients and too much work!) but it is fun to participate in the lesson. Afterwards, we had our second Arabic script lesson. We have made it through the Arabic alphabet which is a feat in itself.  Here’s my name: كارول وهيت.

Tonight we pack again and leave after our placement tomorrow for our fourth weekend trip. This time we are going to Chef Chaouen. Until Sunday, bsalama.

Fabulous Fez

After our treat of “couscous Friday,” we left immediately to arrive at the train station for our 2 ½ hour trip to Fes. First class train riding is always fun and an adventure. We sat with two young Moroccan men and a couple from the Netherlands; again, luckily, all spoke English. The scenery from Rabat to Fes was spectacular – very reminiscent of Tuscany. There were lush green rolling hills, with olive, lemon and orange trees dotting the landscape.

If you measure the size and complexity of medinas on a scale of 1 to 10, Rabat is a 1, Marrakesh is a 7, and Fes is a 25! Almost 200,000 Fassis (people from Fes) call this maze of more than 9,500 twisting alleys, blind turns and hidden souks home, while tourists call it one of the most mind-boggling places in Morocco. The city seems suspended in time between the middle ages and the modern world.

By our request, the hotel had a driver meet us at the train station and take us to our charming new home, the Riad Fes Medina. The owner immediately greeted us with mint tea and cookies.

The Riad looking down to the atrium from our room on the third floor.

We ventured out on our own for a few hours, scrupulously memorizing our return route! We ate dinner at the Café Clock where Harold had a camel burger and I had a falafel.

Harold shows us his camel burger and coke.

After a sound night’s sleep (interrupted only by the ever present call to prayers at about 5 AM – loud enough to jolt us awake), we had breakfast and met our guide, Lounes. He took us around for the next five hours as we wended our way through the medina.

We visited:

 -  The Batha Museam

  -   Medersa el-Attarine (a school founded in 1325)

The niche that faces Mecca where the students prayed

-      Medersa Bou Inania (a theologic college founded in 1350)

-      Tanneries – the most amazing sight! In the heart of the leather district, you can get to a vantage point to observe men in pits, using natural products (henna, saffron, mint and indigo) to dye goat, lamb, cow and camel leather. This is the same method used for millennium and the job is passed from father to son.

The Tannery

-          Souks selling leather, copper, silver, scarves, shoes, pottery, carpets and every kind of fruit, vegetable and meat imaginable

You can buy chickens or a goose for dinner tonight.

Crowded with people and donkeys on a Saturday afternoon.

One of thousands of rows of souks in the medina in Fes.

-          Carpet store  where we watched women making silk carpets

I help make the silk carpet (of course, they asked me for money afterwards)

-          Argon store where we saw how they make argon oil

-          Boujeloud Jardins – the beautiful public gardens

-          Zaouia Moulay Idriss II shrine – non-muslims cannot enter but we peeked in and saw the tomb and shrine of Moulay Idriss II, the founder of Fes

-          Seffarine – metal workers make tin, silver and brass pieces

Handmade silver and brass pieces

By this time, we were exhausted and happy to sit at an outdoor café and enjoy a delicious meal (couscous with chicken, raisins and vegetables and a meat tajine with prunes and vegetables). Of course, this was served with lots of fresh bread, lentils and olives. All this with a large bottle of water plus tip was $12. The experience PRICELESS!

Delicious lunch and fantastic people watching at outdoor cafe

We then meandered back to the hotel, drank some wine we had brought with us (difficult to find wine stores in a Muslim country, but the Moroccan wine is actually excellent!), watched a strange Julia Roberts/Brad Pitt movie subtitled in Arabic, then went to sleep.

After breakfast this morning, armed with a map and GPS, we walked through the medina until about 1:30, leaving us enough time for a pizza for lunch before our train; however, the pizza couldn’t be ready in enough time, so we left and settled for two scoops of chocolate ice cream (our first in Morocco) at the train station. The ride “home” (and it does feel like home after three weeks here) was uneventful. We were home in plenty of time to eat dinner and exchange stories with the other volunteers about their weekend trips.

In parting, we wish everyone a Happy Easter, although it didn’t feel much like the holiday here.

End of week 3

This week has been busy and flown by; our placements have settled into a wonderful routine. We both love teaching English as the students are bright and motivated to learn. It keeps us on our toes trying to explain the idiosyncrasies of the language. On Monday, we went back to the medina, on Tuesday Harold and I walked to Marjane, a mall which would rival any Maryland mall. There were upscale jewelry and clothing stores, a food court and a “super Walmart.” On Wednesday, the ladies went back to the hammam in the afternoon, and Harold made his first trip there in the evening (men start at 8 PM). We all enjoyed the experience. In between times, there’s cooking lessons, Arabic language and script lessons and cultural talks. And eating!!! The food here is the best I’ve had at a CCS. Lunch and dinner are full course hot meals with at least one meat/poultry dish, soup, salad, bread and a large variety of vegetables. We always have wonderful fresh fruit for dessert. Then, at 4 PM, we have mint tea and a Moroccan sweet treat.

After placement today, we’ll eat a quick lunch (it’s couscous Friday), then we are off to the train station to catch the 2 PM train to Fes. More next week....